The Blessing of Boon

I’ve always been a fan of the word boon.  It’s a little funny and outdated (coming from the 12^th century), but carries with it big meaning (a blessing or favor).  And somehow the simple choice of picking it as your word versus something more popular seems to give the situation more weight (just ask the Sandman comics).  Which is why it’s such a perfect name for a perfectly simple restaurant.    

Located in Guernville (Population: 4,534), BoonEat + Drink is a modern California bistro.  Tiny, yet airy with tables composed from felled redwood trees, Boon is all about the blessings of simplicity.  Its simple menu is meant to show off produce from backyard garden and area farms.  Owner Crista Luedtke (who’s dog is the inspiration for the name of the restaurant) wasn’t there that night we dined (she was at their newly opened hotel/spa a ½ mile away), but you can see her detailing in every nook and cranny of this minute restaurant that Food and Wine noted as one of the best restaurants in“America's Best Little Food Towns.”

Boon loves community; they support their local farms and businesses and use primarily organic ingredients (some from their Boon gardens both behind the restaurant and hotel).  They also use hormone-free, antibiotic-free and sustainably-raised meats as much as possible based on availability and pricing.  Boon is also committed to local drinking, serving only Russian River wines (made and brewed) and microbrew beers from no further than Mendocino County.  To start off the night, Kelly chose to partake in their 2011Chardonnay, Medlock Ames ($12) a wine with bright floral aromatics, hints of slate, and a candied hazelnut finish.

Our server Brian directed us to some greats of Boon’s menu.  We started off with the Flash Fried Brussel Sprouts, Chili, Lemon, Garlic, and Olive Oil ($7).  If candy was made out of brussel sprouts it would be this!!!  Every flavor took a bow: no one ingredient overpowered, each one was equal and individual in your mouth. 

Kelly experienced the BelFiore Burrata, Beet Hazelnut Pesto and Grilled Bread.  BelFiore is one of the few remaining small, family-owned cheese making operations in the Bay Area and it was the perfect diving board for this dish.  The bright red color of dish pronounced boldness, but it definitely waited for the taster to unleash its bloom.  “Pesto can be in your face, but with this dish the only thing in your face was the color,” noted Kelly.  “The taste was sweet and delicate like a china doll.” 

Kelly continued with the Flat Iron Steak with Truffle Fries, Chimichurri, Wild Arugula Salad with Sherry-Shallot Vinaigrette ($22).  Her steak was young and explorative in a way that reminded one that the taste of steak is fun to play with.  “Steak doesn’t always have to be filet mignon or prime rib,” she continued.  “Flat iron is the new delicacy.”

For my entrée I dined on Truffle Fries (I couldn’t get enough of them this trip) with Chimchurri instead of House-made Ketchup and Garlic Aioli ($8).   I balanced the decadence of the pommes with some healthiness with the Tuscan Kale Salad, Shaved Fennel, Medjool Dates, Crispy Shallots, Shave Parma, Kumquat Vineaigrette ($10).

We finished the night with the Bread Pudding, Currants, Citrus Zest, Vanilla Crème Angalaise, Caramel ($8).  Kelly enjoyed a French Press Pot of local roaster (surprise, surprise) Flying Goat Coffee out of Healdsburg.

And so, Boon lived up to its name, for this dinner was a perfect (locally sourced) blessing.

Quiet Times on the Russian River at the Rio Villa Beach Resort

After our Russian River tour with Wine Cube Tours we decided to relax a little at our residence for the night: the Rio Villa Beach Resort, a Bed and Breakfast Inn located on a quiet bend of the famed banks of the Russian River.

Our view from the Rio Villa

Located in the tiny hamlet of Monte Rio (Population: 1,152, they just kept getting smaller and smaller…), which as its sign proclaims is a “Vacation Wonderland!”  Just moments away from the Sonoma Coast and over a hundred wineries, this quaint resort offers a variety of accommodations for couples, families and individuals traveling for relaxation or business. 

Adjectives such as charming and unpretentious lazily swirled through the air as we lounged in the Adirondack Chairs in the post wine tasting afternoon.  Surrounded by majestic redwoods, the Rio Villa has a private beach that is totally bathed in sunshine.  The grounds are meticulously manicured and aglow with the color of flowers and the aroma of herbs.  Just next door and around the river bend is the Monte Rio public beach where canoes and kayaks may be rented and a concession stand is open during the season. 

The Family Garden Studio

They have several rooms styles at Rio Villa to choose from their Kitchen Balcony Suite, River View Balcony, Two Bedroom Balcony Suite, and Deluxe River View Balcony enjoy views of the stunning Russian River while for a more economical stay without a river view you can try their One Bedroom Kitchen Suite and One & Two Bedroom Villa Suites.  Rates range from $99 to $309 and may require a 2-3 night minimum stay.  They do offer AAA, Senior, and Military discounts.

Kelly and I spent the night in their Family Garden Studio, their largest room that can accommodate up to six people.  This family-friendly room with fireplace and full kitchen opens onto a large sunny patio right on the river.  It has 2 queen-sized beds, a futon sofa/bed, and a big bathroom with a spa tub.  This room is pet friendly with a $25/night pet fee.

Rio Villa Owner Ron

Between May and October the Rio Villa hosts a lot (a lot) of weddings.  Their property can accommodate groups of up to 100 people in numerous outdoor settings.  Due to the small size of their property, all large events must commit to renting all of their 11 rooms for a minimum of 2 or 3 nights.  

After a delicious dinner at Boon (post to come soon) we returned to the Rio Villa.  On a warmer night we would have gathered on their patio by the outdoor fireplace to enjoy a cozy and friendly night of wine and marshmallows, but the chill got the best of us...

The next morning we woke up and grabbed some coffee from the provided continental breakfast (which includes coffee cakes, breads, muffins, fresh fruit, juice and freshly brewed coffee) and took in the tranquility of the Russian River. 

So whether you are planning a splendid summer vacation for the entire family, a romantic getaway to Sonoma’s premier wine country, or a quiet retreat in the winter rain you are sure to enjoy the beauty and charm this spot on the Russian River has to offer.

The Pinots of Hartford Family Winery

Our final stop on our amazing Russian River day with Raymond Rolander of Wine Cube Tours was Hartford Family Winery!

Specializing in Single-Vineyard Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Old Vine Zinfandel, Hartford Family Winery is a family–owned winery also located in Forestville within (surprise, surprise) the Russian River AVA.  Hartford Family Winery has received many accolades throughout the years including being named one of the Top Wineries of 2010 by Wine & Spirits magazine.

Winemaker Jeff Stewart

Located 15 miles from the Pacific Coast, Hartford Family Winery was founded in 1994 by Don and Jennifer Hartford's appreciation for the wines, the people, and the unique vineyards near their Russian River Valley home.  Don Hartford grew up on a small strawberry farm in western Massachusetts, and later attended the University of Massachusetts at Amherst.  Don Hartford met his wife, Jennifer Jackson-Hartford in 1979, while at Santa Clara University in Northern California while pursuing a law degree (shortly thereafter, Jennifer's father, Jess, started a modest 16,000 case winery called Kendall-Jackson). 

The Hartford’s belief, as stewarded by winemaker Jeff Stewart, is making delicious wines of high personality is directly related to the difficult locations of their vineyard sources, the limited production of their bottlings, and the varietals they use.  "Character through adversity" is an expression that Don and Jenny believe applies to people and grapevines and surviving adversity builds character, and personality, in both. 

Several of their established vineyards are not irrigated (they feel over-watering of vines produces more crop but dilutes flavors).  Also, most of their vineyard’s vines are tightly space (as tight spacing encourages competition among vines, promotes smaller cluster and berry size, and accentuates the intensity of their wines).  The result of these small and low-yielding vineyards that deliver meager amounts is expressive and personality-rich wine.  Their single-vineyard Hartford Court Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays total as few as 93 cases up to about 800 cases.

The Hartford’s love Pinot Noir and in many years make about ten of them with fruit from the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, Green Valley, Carneros, Anderson Valley, and Marin appellations.  Hartford Family Winery believes that Pinot Noir makes “the most seductive red wine, notable for its supple, silky texture.”  In their opinion, Pinot Noir is one of the best grapes for expressing vineyard site characteristics in a transparent manner.

And Kelly and I are in agreeance as both our favorite Hartford Family Wines were their onion like layered Pinot Noirs: Hailey’s Block (named after Don and Jennifer Hartford’s daughter) and Jennifer’s Block Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2010.  

2010 Hartfort Court Hailey's Block Pinot Noir ($65) is bright ruby red in color with flavors of raspberry, cherry, and baking spice that bloom into a bouquet as the wine breaths.  The finish on this Pinot Noir is straight down the middle of the ballpark: the perfect balance of spice and structure.  

 

2010 Hartford Court Jennifer's Pinot Noir ($70, but unfortunately it’s completely Sold Out) received 93 points from International Wine Cellar.  With bright hues and a nose of black raspberry, rose oil, allspice, and soda pop its definitely a wine you won’t forget.  The palate displays flavors of cherries and berries without having either of those fruits scream in your face.  It finishes with an energy that both zips and zaps.

So on their classic outdoor patio with a welcoming fountain, Hartford Family Wines was the perfect place to finish our tour of the Russian River Valley; surrounded on all sides by hills and dales all covered with grapes just itching to evolve into a spectrum of wines.

Hot Temps, Alluvial Soils, and the Alexander Valley

The Thomas Gals in the AVV Wine Cave

 The next winery we hit on our Vines and Vinos Tour would also be our accommodations for the night (but that’s for another post coming up!) Alexander Valley Vineyards!

Dexter and the Barrels

I first met the peeps of Alexander Valley Vineyards at event in Santa Monica last year for the Sonoma Wine Road.  With a catchphrase of “Heaven Condensed.” the mission of the Wine Road is to increase awareness through education and marketing of three of Sonoma’s most buzzworthy AVAs (American Viticultural Area aka an appellation): Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, and Russian River Valley.  It was at this event held at a coastal sushi restaurant overlooking Pacific Ocean vistas I was introduced to the warm temperatures and alluvial soils of the Alexander Valley, through the gorgeous grapes of Alexander Valley Vineyards.

Located at the northern end of Sonoma County, the Alexander Valley is 22 miles long and varies in width from two to seven miles.  A prominent appellation known worldwide as the source of elegant, age worthy wines, the valley is best known for the world-famous Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that thrive from the valley floor all the way up the rolling hillsides and mountain ridges.   The alluvial soils (which means it is made up of materials that are left by the water of rivers, floods, etc…) of the region tend to impart a rich chocolates note on these rich and voluptuous Cabernets.  The gravelly soil the straddles the Russian River also encourage Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot to flourish.   Besides these staples the Alexander Valley is also home to Zinfandel and Rhone varieties, including Syrah and Viognier.

Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley was mostly prune orchards and pastures when, in 1962, Maggie and Harry Wetzel purchased a large portion of a homestead built by Cyrus Alexander in the 1840s, the valley’s nineteenth century namesake.  Here, in a rural community of family farms and ranches, the Wetzel family settled.  They raised livestock, cultivated gardens and restored Alexander’s original home making the center of the family life. 

Kelly in the Zen of Wine

With an eye to their neighbors in nearby Napa Valley, the Wetzel’s planted premium grape varieties, among the first in the area.  Then the family built a small winery and Hank Wetzel, oldest son of Maggie and Harry, produced Alexander Valley Vineyard’s first wine in 1975.   His wife Linda set up the books and managed the winery office.

AVV quickly established a reputation for estate grown wines with distinctive varietal character.  Acclaimed for crisp Chardonnay and luscious Cabernet Sauvignon.  Alexander Valley Vineyards brought recognition to the appellation and became a leading winery in Sonoma County.

Located on Highway 128, 6 miles from the sleep town of Healdsburg, the Wetzel Family Estate grows fourteen grapes varieties on diverse sites stretching from the banks of the Russian River up onto the hillsides   Each grape variety is matched to a specific soil type and exposure.  

Vineyard Manager Mark Houser and Winemaker Kevin Hart work as a team to maximize fruit flavor in the vineyard and to create balanced wines that capture the grapes varietal characteristics.  Barrel fermentation and aging take place in their AVV Wine Cave, which reaches deep into a hillside adjacent to the winery for a total of 25,000 square feet, where the cool constant temperature and high humidity are ideal for aging wine.   

Kelly and I toured the Wine Cave all the while AVV winery dog, Dexter the Pug, scampered from our legs to the wine barrels.  As Francis Krugar, Director of Hospitality of Alexander Valley Vineyards explained, “We don’t need air conditioning with the Wine Cave, the temperature is always around 60 degrees usually only shift a degree or two here or there.”

Dexter the Pug

Which is pretty impressive as the winery might have a 40-50 degree variance in temperature in a single day in the summertime.  It’s common in August for the thermometer to be at 60 degrees in the morning and by the afternoon have it hit the 100-110 degree (the Alexander Valley is the hottest appellation in Sonoma)!   

Though parties and lunches are few and far between, every year AVV has an annual 3-course meal in the Wine Cave to celebrate the new release of CYRUS, their flagship Bordeaux style blend named after Alexander Valley founder Cyrus on his birthday (March 15th), and features the cuisine of a favorite Sonoma County chef (this year it Peloton Catering).

Filling the Barrels!

2014 marks the family’s 52^nd year on the historic property and the winery’s 39^th anniversary.  The 3^rd generation of the Wetzel Family (most of whom live on the property) now produces 100,000 cases annually and was voted Sonoma’s Best Winery in 2011 by Bay Area wine lovers. 

Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot constitute over one-half of total production.  Other varietals include Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah.  Proprietary wines include CYRUS, their limited production Bordeaux style blend, Gewurz, and their 3 voluptuous Zins: Temptation Zinfandel, Redemption Zinfandel, and Sin Zin.

We’ll go into highlights of these wines in our next post, but we first wanted you to get a taste for the world of Alexander ValleyVineyards!