California Girls

Carmel-By-The-Sea: the Perfect Socially Distanced Bay Area Day Trip

By Letty Thomas, Edible Skinny

With Covid-19 curtailing a lot of travel plans, the perfect remedy for a Bay Area resident is a day trip to somewhere new.  Last month the four of us (myself, my sister Kathy, and my two daughters Katie and Kelly) planned a trip to Carmel-by-the-Sea or Carmel for short.   

COVID Spies

Located on the central coast of California about 120 miles south of San Francisco in Monterey County – Carmel is a hidden gem.  It is primarily a residential community with a passion for the ocean and the arts.  It was developed after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake when many artists, writers and actors left the city.

Driftwood on the Beach

We packed a picnic lunch and headed down the coast.  It was a two hour drive to the one square mile village.  It was a Saturday so parking at the beach was a bit challenging.  It was a beautiful day, Carmel has a beautiful beach, and apparently lots of beautiful people were enjoying it.  

Sandwich Time

One advantage that aided us on our quest for a parking spot: there are no parking meters in town.  In fact Carmel has some other unique claims.  There are no street lights and no house numbers on any house or business, which also leads to no home mail delivery.  Even stranger is the law making it illegal to wear high heels in town without a permit!

The Whole Gang

Once that ever illusive park spot was secured, we found an ocean view bench to eat our picnic lunch.  The smell of the ocean and sound of the waves breaking was so relaxing.  After eating we decided to go down on the beach.  The sand was soft and wide, with a gently sloping hill leading down to the water.  It's a lovely waterfront and reminds me of the beaches of the east coast.  

Beach Time!

After an hour or so, we decided to go into town and do some shopping before our early dinner.  I must say, it was easier walking down the hill to the water's edge than walking back up.  But made it back up the hill we did.  We retrieved the car from that treasured spot, and headed up the few blocks to town.  

In Carmel there are many cute shops built around fountains and plantings.  We headed to Lula's Chocolates for some of their delicious sea salt caramels.  It has been a family run business since 1945 using the same original recipes.  They are the best caramels I've ever eaten and melt in your mouth.

Lula's Chocolates

We got back in the car and toured around the winding, narrow streets.  The homes each having a unique name (instead of a house number) looked like something out of a Mediterranean travel brochure.  Every yard had blooming flowers, bushes, and trees.

It was time for dinner.  We found our restaurant: Flaherty's Seafood Grill and Oyster Bar.  Due to Covid -19 we ate outside on the sidewalk.  The food was delicious and the atmosphere charming as I felt I was in Europe at a sidewalk cafe.  The local wine complimented the seafood dinner.

Dining at Flaherty's Seafood Grill

After dinner we took one last look at the ocean as the sun was beginning to set.  It was time to head home after a very satisfying day in Carmel.  I highly recommend a visit to this charming village by the sea.

Letty Thomas was born and raised in multiple towns in NJ.  She attended college in Vermont and Connecticut.  She dreamed of working for Vogue or Glamour magazine but her love of salt water and boating got in the way.  She happily managed a yacht club “down the New Jersey shore” for almost 20 years before jumping into the world of beauty and travel writing.  She has two grown daughters that make her smile.

Hofsas House: Comfort and Care in a Home away From Home

By Kelly Grace Thomas

There aren’t many hotels that greet their guests by first name. Or many that can host a family reunion equipped with meeting halls, family suites and kitchens. And even less that offer saunas, fireplaces, ocean views and wine and a cheese plates upon check in. The Hofsas House in Carmel-by-the-Sea does all of this and more. The Hofsas House, one of Carmel-by-the-Sea’s most beloved hotels, offers a personalized stay while making sure each and every one of their guests feels like family. 

The Hofsas House located in the heart of Carmel-by-the-Sea has all the amenities of corporate establishments while still maintaining a family feel. The pretty-in-pink hotel which is owned by the Theis family has been in business for over six decades and offers a variety of options to accommodate all groups large to small. 

The Hofsas House has 38 different guest rooms that range from standard singles, to queens with in-room fireplaces and ocean views, to a two bedroom suites with private balconies. The Hofsas House has something to fit any need and provides the benefits of an AirBnB without the fuss. They take the worry out of booking and cleaning fees, providing guest with comfortable stay and a prime location, walkable to all Carmel-by-the-Sea’s amenities. They are a one-stop-shop, selling tickets for many of the local sights and attractions. 

The Hofsas House even starts your day off right with a complimentary morning breakfast, hearthside fire and newspaper, another finishing touch on their outstanding and sincere customer service, where guests are always greeted with a warm smile.

“It’s a family place, that’s why people keep coming back,” said Scott Theis. This family-run business cares about their neighborhood. Each co-owner is highly involved in the Carmel-by-the-Sea’s community, they love their town and want their guests to feel the same. These values are apparent and reflected in the way they tailor and personalize each guests experience to ensure a restful stay.

During Edible Skinny’s stay we were impressed by how much Hofsas helped to make our experience enjoyable both in and outside the hotel. Hofsas always has a friendly face at the front desk to greet customers with recommendation of outstanding local eateries like Cafe Dametra and wonderful organic tasting rooms De Tierra and Windy Oaks. The Hofsas House can also help guest buy tickets for the Monterey Bay Aquarium and the Wine Walk, both highly recommended by Edible Skinny. The Hofsas House made seeing Carmel-by-the-Sea a positive and hassle-free experience.

Hofsas goes the extra mile for their guests. Edible Skinny was greeted with a bottle of Will’s Fargo Pinot Noir, a delicious and velvety wine made by the always amazing and organic Holman Ranch, as well as a cheese plate from the local cheese shop. While wine and cheese aren’t included with every room, guests can order it for their arrival for a very reasonable fee. With a fine glass of wine and cheese and crackers,  Edible Skinny editors cuddled up by the in-room fireplace (Duraflame included)  to enjoy the quiet luxury of relaxation of (what felt like) a home away from home.

While all of these things help Hofsas standout against other hotels, we would remiss if we didn’t mention the funky style of this seaside institution. One thing Hofsas is known for is their unique decor This painted-pink hotel stands out as a kitschy neighborhood gem among the subue designs of the town's other lodgings. The Hofsas House has a vintage feel, like you are going back in time, ready for a cozy stay at your grandmother's house. It is an atmosphere of comfort and care, with a splash of hip funk. The standout style of Hofsas acknowledges how what was once old has become new again. One thing that accounts for the Hofsas unique style is the decorative eyes of Doris Theis. “A lot of newer hotels everything is white, that is not the Hofsas House,” said Doris, with a smile.

While staying at Hofsas, even though you are a visitor you feel like you’re part of the community, you’re part of the family. Whether it is the smiles and first name-greeting at the front desk, or settling in front of the fire after a full-day of wining and dining, Hofsas House is the perfect place to getaway while still enjoying the comforts of home.

Within walking distance to every amenity in Carmel-by-the-Sea the Hofsas House perfect for those doing the Wine Walk, Art Galleries or dining at any of the amazing eateries. Hofsas House is a must stay destination for any traveler who wants to an exceptional stay that goes above and beyond. For more informaion about the Hofas House please visit www.hofsashouse.com

Art, Wine, & Olive Oil at Trio Carmel

After our night at Hofsas Hotel, Miss Julia Reed Nichols and I decided to explore Carmel-by-the-Sea’s storybook four-block downtown.  Peppered with local Monterey wine tasting rooms and numerous art galleries, it’s the perfect place to intentionally get lost. 

We were doing exactly that when we stumbled across Trio Carmel, which along with being a Monterey wine tasting room AND art gallery, also harbors a delightful amount of space dedicated to the sale of Ultra-Premium Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegars.

Trio encourages its patrons to sample freely; morsels of bread dot the end of each shelf.  But you must save room to fully experience Trio, as there were at least fifty bottles to discover throughout the sleek modern space. 

Some of my favorites included their Fused Blood Orange Olive Oil (made by pressing whole fruit and olives together), the Baklouti Green Chile Olive Oil (which is spicy and green at the same time), and their Garlic Olive Oil (which had a great soft roundness that comes from cloves of roasted garlic). 

Prices were pretty reasonable, around $13 for a bottle or you can get a mini-6-pack for $30.   

We opted for the later, splitting the deal for 3 olive oils each.  The hardest part of the whole tasting was figuring out which unique olive oils made the final cut for future salad dressings! 

As always, hope life is delicious!

The Details of Romance at Hofsas House

As Edible Skinny meandered down the Central Coast we found ourselves in the sleepy storybook town of Carmel-by-the-Sea for a night’s sojourn at the European style Hofsas House.   Renowned architect Mies van der Rohe famously noted that, “God is in the details,” but for the Theis Family, who have owned and operated their hotel for over 60 years, the architecture of hospitality is structured in the details of romance.  

 

Carmel was rated #3 on Travel + Leisure’s list of the world’s best cities for romance; thus making it the perfect hamlet for that weekend couple’s getaway.   The enchanting Hofsas House is located within walking distance of everything adoringly Carmel: gorgeous driftwood filled beaches, sumptuous restaurants, and bohemian shops cloistered away in secluded courtyards.

 

For Hofsas House the word hospitality tailors itself to each guest.  From their 38 one-of-a-kind rooms that boast European charm and comfort with Dutch Doors allowing enjoyment of the vista views of the pines that crest the Pacific Ocean.  To a Monterey Wine & Cheese Pairing ($30) that perfectly compliments one of their many cozy fireplaced rooms.  To a Beach Fire and S’Mores Bundle ($60), which includes a wood bundle and starter, all the necessary chocolate/marshmallow/graham supplies, a flashlight, and snuggly blanket so your twosomes can gaze upon stars that just beg for adoration.  To the morning a continental breakfast abound with coffee carafes and trays that can be piled high with fresh pastries from the local neighborhood bakeries for the perfect breakfast in bed.

So go and find your details, for romance whispers to all who come to this charming retreat.  

Hoping life is delicious!  

¡Que Rica! (How Delicious) w/ Mundaka

Fried Garbanzos. Photo by Kat Thomas

After taking a break from posting on our Vines to Vino trip Edible Skinny now resumes to finish the tales Carmel-by-the-Sea!

¡Que Rica! (How Delicious) w/ Mundaka

So our first night at Carmel-by-the-Sea we had the pleasure of dinning at the scrumptious Mundaka!

Opened in March 2009, Mundaka was a Spanish style tapas restaurant located blocks away from Hofsas House.  It’s Spain by way of Belgium chef and owner Brandon Miller (who did a culinary food tour in Espana).  Mundaka is the type of place where locals usually make their way there once a week and couples celebrate their anniversary.  It’s good food and drink (but not to excess) at a reasonable price.

Coliflor.  Photo by Kat Thomas

As soon as you enter there are echoes of Espana in every corner.   The interior is dim with a darkness that is full of excitable uncertainty.  The Basque country flag proudly hangs from the ceiling.  The soundtrack of Vicki, Christina, Barcelona plays in the background.  Kelly (who lived in Barcelona for a year) noted how Mundaka emitted the calmness of an European restaurant, of a Mediterranean meditation.   Mundaka means surfer in Spain and it follows that the restaurant would have a laid back casual attitude about the entire dining experience. 

Which is not to say they don’t focus on craft.  Mundaka believes in serving “real” food only.  The bottom of each menu proclaims:

YES: fresh, local, organic, biodynamic, free-range, line-caught, sustainable, fair-trade, home made, from scratch

NO: antibiotics, hormones, pesticides, high fructose corn syrup, artificial colors, artificial flavors, processed foods.  

It’s in the details.  House made Sangria with red wine.  Lawrence of Arabia projected on the wall.  Perfecting a few bites of everything.  Each dish is delicate and distinct without being overwhelming.  It’s the mastery of a few ingredients. 

Being the Veggie of the group I tried the multiple plant-based options on the menu.  It can be hard for vegetables to be delectably bold, but Mundaka positively rocked it! 

The Papa Bravas ($5.5), a classic Spanish dish of fried potatoes, tomato sauce, and aioli, was delightfully spicy with hints of chipotle smokiness.  The Fried Garbanzos with Truffle Salt ($5.5) were delicately toasty like popcorn, but so much more advanced.  Absolutely not to be missed!!!

Duck Confit. Photo by Kat Thomas

The Coliflor, a dish of Cauliflower gratin, horseradish, Gruyere ($8.5) was rich and homey, like the food equivalent of a warm couch.  The horseradish aftertaste definitely made sure you weren’t going to forget it.

The Flores, beer battered fried squash blossoms with lavender cara sauce was created to perfection.  Wow!  This is what fried food is supposed to be: a fragile batter that doesn’t weight down its interior but instead augments it! ($7.5)

I (naturally) didn’t partake in the meat courses, but Kelly claimed that the Duck Confit with Chorizo and Leek Puree was the best dish of the entire trip.  “It had a spiciness not found in traditional duck.  Smooth but decadent; it had the best combination of tender and crunch.  It tastes like someone made it just for you.”

Pastel de Gengirre. Photo by Kat Thomas

Pan Chicoliate. Photo by Kat Thomas

For a sweet finish we chose the Pastel de Gengirre, Ginger Cake with Chantilly Cream ($8) and Pan Chicoliate (Chocolate, Sea Salt, Olive Oil, and Toast ($7.5).  The latter was perfection.  Crusty bread toasted with the perfect amount of oil and salt with a chocolate spread that was rich and sweet but never bordered on sickly.  Our server Danielle told us that during the holiday season Mundaka offers a “build your own gingerbread house.”

¡Que Rica!

A Fairytale Life of Carmel and the Hofsas House

The next stop in our Vines to Vinos Tour with a stay at Hofsas House in Carmel-by-the-Sea (aka just Carmel). 

A two-hour drive from San Francisco, Carmel is known as a village in the forest by the sea.  Carmel’s Bohemian founders fought to maintain the outdoor mystique and small-town appeal (1910 it reported that 60 percent of Carmel's houses were built by citizens who were "devoting their lives to work connected to the aesthetic arts") and their efforts are still evident today. 

Most everything is within walking distance in this one square mile village: fine dining, art galleries, shopping, beaches, and parks.  The residential district has no sidewalks or street lights, and the beach is unadulterated by commercial development.  There’s a housing code that no buildings can be constructed over two stories.  Dutch doors are everywhere (everywhere!).  Homes are known by their name and have no street addresses.  And then there’s the dogs…

No one is exactly sure when it began or how, but thanks to celebrities such as Doris Day and Betty White, pets get the spotlight in Carmel.  All you have to do hear that the population of Carmel is cited as 4,037 people, and 847 dogs!  Many restaurants, shops, art galleries, and inns are pet-friendly allowing man’s best friend to go everywhere you go. 

Carmel is all about the boutique experience; they’ve got 45 inns, but they’re all small.  One such pink hotel is the Hofsas House, our home for the next two days of the Vines to Vinos Tour.

Hofsas House celebrates European elegance with the warmth of family hospitality. Not the easiest word to pronounce (the first part is like “Hos “ in hospitality, the “Sas” part is pronounced “Sis” (as in your best friend)), but for over 60 years, the Theis Family has been providing hospitality designed to suit everyone’s travel tastes.  General Manager Carrie Thies noted, “Our inn has a very at home feel that emanates comfort, we consider it an extension of family hospitality.”  There dedication to going the extra mile was displayed when I forget my favorite headband at the hotel.  Upon calling over I discovered they categorized all lost items by date and later on that day it was already in the mail back to me!

Donna Hofsas and her husband Fred, moved from Los Angeles to Carmel in the late 1940s.  While he was busy as an accountant, she oversaw the cottages they had purchased in town, living in one and renting out three others, and so began Hofsas House.   In 1957, they took the major step of building the main hotel, adding 25 rooms and a swimming pool, moving their business to the next level.   After they divorced, she kept Hofsas House, and in the 1960s, she added the north wing and meeting room. 

 

The hotel bears many of Donna’s personal touches.  She commissioned her friend, artist Maxine Albro, to paint the Bavarian-themed welcome mural, and three of Maxine’s paintings hang in the lobby, as well.  Fred, who was also an artist and photographer, created the mosaic coat of arms, whose Latin words mean “Leisure with dignity.”  In 2000, Donna’s granddaughter, Carrie Theis, with whom she had been very close, became General Manager.  It was a full-circle journey for Carrie, who spent summers as a child helping her grandmother at Hofsas House, escorting guests to their rooms at the tender age of 8 and getting a seat behind the front desk when she was 12.  

Thus magic of Germany is still showcased nearly 60 years later in 38 one-of-a-kind, spacious European rooms, many with ocean views.  Rooms have Dutch doors (of course they do!), free WiFi and many of the rooms and suites have fireplaces, private balconies, wet bars or kitchens as well as patios for enjoying the beautiful ocean view.  A heated pool, dry saunas, decks with views and complimentary off-street parking are also offered as well.  Each room at the Hofsas House is decorated differently, our room was unofficially known as the, “the girl room,” since it was all frilly and pink. 

Like most inns in Carmel, Hofsas House serves a Continental Breakfast.  Items such as pastries from Paris Bakery in Monterey and a carafe of coffee are available to take back to your room or enjoy in their fire lit lobby.  Because, as Thies noted, “in Carmel sometimes you need to go searching for sun.” 

Which doesn’t mean there isn’t warmth in Carmel.  This village in the forest by the sea contains all the magic of a Grimm fairytale, and what better place to experience it than in the pink hued Bavarian castle of the Hofsas House.