Showing posts with label Amsterdam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Amsterdam. Show all posts

Friday, June 1, 2018

Hello Netherlands!


 


Hello Netherlands!
By Kat Thomas and Matt Bourquardez,  Edible Skinny

In early Spring Edible Skinny was lucky enough to spend 8 days in The Netherlands. And while on our trek of this Dutch wonderland, we discovered this country far and wide.  We saw it all in Koninkrijk der Nederlanden (aka the Kingdom of the Low Countries) from Amsterdam’s fairy tale canals walks where we were trailed by local cats to the clandestine cannabis coffeeshops to Pancakes, Pancakes, and more Pancakes! (the Dutch LOVE their Pancakes!) to the solitude of the North Sea and its citadel windmills that soldier on against 25 mph winds to the salaciousness of the Red Light District

So here’s to life being delicious, all your moments being postcard worthy, and life always giving you Pancakes, Pancakes, and more Pancakes!


Mercure Hotel Amsterdam City
We LOVE LOVE LOVED this hotel!!! Located on the Amstel river, it was the perfect amount of distance from Amsterdam Centrum with easy access to the Metro and bikes available for rental.  From its complementary Sauna, Steam Room, Ice Bath, and Gym (gotta LOVE Europe’s embracement of the art of relaxation) to the STACH in the Lobby (a chain of corner grocery stores that sell gourmet coffees, pastries, wine, and juices), it was perfect spot for  just arriving Americans. The rooms had plenty of USB plugs (great for Americans who only brought a few converters…) and free WiFI that was strong enough to stream Netflix (for those jetlagged 9 hour difference nights)! The Hotel Lobby bar, festooned with hundreds of metal fish schooling around it, invited us to connected with multiple Americans while sharing some local beers.  


The Bulldog
After a quick post flight nap we hopped onto the Metro via our I amsterdam City Cards (which gives you unlimited access to Amsterdam’s GVB public transport system (which includes all buses, trams and Metros in the city) for 24, 48, 72 or 96 hours).  We exited at Amsterdam Centrum and headed over to the Bulldog for some legal cannabis. Amsterdam’s first coffee shop, their legacy started in 1974 in a sex-shop located in the cellar of house number 90. What started as a living room for friends where they secretly smoked joints is now an Amsterdam (and Canadian) institution with 4 Cafes, 5 Coffeeshops, 3 Souvenir Shops, and 3 Hotels worldwide.  Our first night in Amsterdam we got a gram of Sativa and 2 Hot Chocolates with Whip Cream (it costs extra… there’s a reason why cheap dates are known as “Going Dutch”) and our complimentary cookie (making up for the Whip Cream) and relaxed into the chillest vibe in town. Open from 7am to 1pm it’s an experience not to be missed!


Burgerland
Sufficiently stoned we headed over to Burgerland, an all night joint located around the corner.  There we consumed two of Amsterdam’s most prevalent offerings: Burgers and French Fries. While we nooshed on these Dutch staples we learned about Irish Beef (a grass fed beef that’s known to be leaner in cut and always comes in pieces versus a burger patty!).  This bovine delight was topped with one of the city’s favorite souvenirs: Old Amsterdam Cheese. Our French Fry sauce (which naturally we had to pay for...) included the requisite mayonnaise! We had begun our Dutch cullinary adventure!


Amsterdam Noord
The next day we hoped a quick (FREE) ferry ride across the River IJ and Amsterdam's harbour, to Amsterdam Noord (North). Created during the Golden Age of Dutch trade, it later became a substantial industrial district. Today's Noord has grown into the much-revered bastion of Amsterdam's alternative culture, the heart of Amsterdam’s indie art scene, having refurbished many old shipping warehouses to host trendy eateries, exhibition, and performance spaces, artist studios.  Noord’s rebirth was accelerated by Amsterdam’s urgent need for unexplored real estate for Amsterdam's growing population. While there we swung on the swings of the area’s multitude of parks, checked out the I amsterdam Sign (they’re strategically placed throughout town and are fantastic IG spots), and dined at the Super Duper FAB SMAAQT! The restaurant’s cozy interior, decorated with warm woods, bricks, and leathers, complimented the best burger we had in Amsterdam (which is saying a lot!) on a black pepper bun!
               
Amstel Boathouse
The next day we dined at the Amstel Boathouse, located right on the Amstel River.  There we experimented with one of the Dutch’s favorite appetizers: Bitterballen. Bitterballen are crispy deep-fried breaded rounds with a tender, savory filling traditionally made with beef.  Think of it as a deep fried meatball that is more mushy in the middle. Neither Matt or mine favorites, we were still glad we were able to experience a classic Dutch dish!


Albert Heijn
One of my favorite things to do in other countries is go supermarket shopping!  Grocery stores are windows into different cultures. While exploring them you get to see what’s favored in different cuisines (in The Netherlands it’s meat and potatoes… Shocker!) along with differences in packaging!  So we entered Albert Heijn, the largest and oldest Dutch supermarket chain founded in 1887, while there we bought wine for 6 Euros, prosciutto for 5 Euros, and Strawberries for 12 Euros!


I amsterdam City Card
While in Amsterdam we rocked our 72 hour I amsterdam City Card.   The I amsterdam City Card is the most convenient and affordable way to experience Amsterdam as along with the aforementioned public transport pass.  Our card procured entrance to over 50 world class museums around the city including Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam, Rembrandt House Museum, ARTIS Royal Zoo, and Amsterdam Museum.  The I amsterdam City Card also allowed us various boat cruise options through the charming canals that grace the city; we chose the Lovers Cruise. Along with endless forms of entertainment it also allows for over 60 discounted offers around Amsterdam.  


The Rijksmuseum
One of the museum’s we scoped out with our I amsterdam City Cards was the Rijksmuseum, a Dutch national museum dedicated to arts and history in Amsterdam.  The museum is located in Museum Square (where’s there’s another I amsterdam sign for more selfie taking…).  The Rijksmuseum is the largest art museum The Netherlands and is also frequently the most visited museum in all the land.  The museum has on display 8,000 objects of art at any given time (with more than a million in reserve).  It’s most treasured painting is Rembrandt’s Night Watch (with crowds the equivalent of seeing the Mona Lisa at the Louvre).


Rent A Bike Amsterdam
Amsterdam has more bicycles than people: an estimated 1 million bikes to 800,000 residents. So it seemed fitting that we would have to explore the city on two wheels!  Our rentals came from Rent A Bike Amsterdam (one of the least expensive places in town with a 24 hour rate of 10 Euros plus deposit). Every single day Amsterdammers collectively travel 1.2 million miles on bike, so as we whizzed past the picknickers and boot campers of parks such as Het Vondelpark we felt right at home!  Just watch out for other two wheelers as bike accidents can be quite nasty! Best to invest in that adorable bike bell (that for Kat it said “I LOVE MY BIKE”).


Foodhallen
It took three years to rehabilitate the old tram depot into a food hall that offers more gourmet food than you can ever consume.  Wood-oven pizza? Check! Poke bowls? Check! Spanish Tapas? Check! There’s even a restaurant/nightclub that has a “pool,” and when we mean pool we mean an empty swimming pool with pillows for that perfect IG shot (they’re everywhere…. EVERYWHERE!!!).


Coster Diamonds’ Factory and Diamond Museum
Another free entry through our I amsterdam City Card, we toured Coster Diamonds’ Factory and Diamond Museum.  Coster Diamonds has played a key role in helping Amsterdam become known as “the City of Diamond “ and the sparkle and shine of this location didn’t disappoint!  Annually Coster Diamonds welcomes some 350,000 visitors who come to marvel at the extensive collection of loose and set diamonds, and admire the Dutch capital's largest collection of stones weighing over 1.00 carat.


Lovers Canal Cruise
Everything is Amsterdam is better when viewed from a boat, and a quick one-hour tour is a great way to acquaint yourself with the city!  Our boat cruise was included in our I amsterdam City Card allowing us to experience the city from yet another vantage point (Centraal Station looks completely different (peaceful)  from the water than when running to make a train to the northernmost point in The Netherlands (chaotic)). Our Lovers Canal Cruise included GPS Audio Guide available on board in over 60 languages to educated ourselves on a bit more Dutch culture.  And with Hop-On/Hop-Off ability and departures happening two to four times per hour, there’s no reason not to get to know the beautiful Dutch capital on a charming canal boat!


De Vier Pilaren
Pancakes for breakfast (or lunch or dinner).  You can't spend a day in Amsterdam without sampling the nation's favorite dish!  For in the Netherlands, pancakes are actually considered a main meal, or in the case of poffertjes (small fluffy versions), a sweet snack.  While in Amsterdam we dined at the carousel like De Vier Pilaren. This mobile restaurant used to travel the funfairs of Holland before settling on the waterfront dock “leidsebosje” and becoming a popular tourist destination….  Dutch pancakes are thinner than the US version, and they’re served either savory or sweet with Stroop (molasses) and powdered sugar. So Pancakes, Pancakes, and more Pancakes!

Ijscuypje

Arguable the best ice cream in Amsterdam. What started as one small shop near the Albert Cuypmarkt has quickly expanded to become one of Amsterdam’s most ubiquitous ice cream shops. IJscuypje makes their ice cream on location from fresh, delicious ingredients.  Stand-out flavors include devious Dutch Chocolate, refreshingly Key West Lime Pie, and signature Champagne Ice Cream made with Moet and Chandon (only in the summer). Along with the cold stuff, Ijscuypje makes some mean French Fries (with t-shirts claiming “Fries Over Guys”).  The potatoes come from a local farmer and they then double cook the fries for the perfect amount of crispyness. Sauces choices (for an additional cost, naturally) included Pimente (spicy mayonnaise with peppers), Truffle (truffle and mayonnaise, no explanation needed), and Oorlog (a combination of homemade satay and mayonnaise).  


The Red Light District
XXX is the logo of Amsterdam (though ironically the reason isn’t dirty in the least…) but with Kat’s burlesque background, we had to explore De Walle aka The Red Light District.  De Wallen is the largest and best known red light district in Amsterdam, consisting of a network of alleys containing approximately three hundred one-room cabins rented by prostitutes who offer their sexual services from behind a window or glass door, typically illuminated with red lights.  Window prostitution is the most visible and typical kind of red light district sex work in Amsterdam with the "kamers" are a large tourist attraction.  A great book documenting the life and experiences of an Amsterdam prostitute is David Wienir’s Amsterdam Exposed (reviewed a few weeks ago by Kat).


Kat Thomas is the Editor in Chief of Edible Skinny, a site dedicated to making your life postcard worthy. She is also the CEO of the creative media company This Way Adventures. You can find more about both brands at http://www.thiswayadventures.com

Matt Bourquardez is a Writer for Edible Skinny. He has traveled the globe and rarely sees his house.

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Discovering the Other Side of The Red Light District: Amsterdam Exposed by David Wienir

Discovering the Other Side of The Red Light District: Amsterdam Exposed by David Wienir
By Kat Thomas

As you'll see from this interview, timing is everything in life. And so it was absolutely fitting that within hours of heading to Amsterdam for the first time, I sat down to interview David Wienir for his upcoming book: Amsterdam Exposed.

Welcome to an intimate look at the world's oldest profession! Wienir's latest book, Amsterdam Exposed: An American's Journey into The Red Light District, is an original and provocative travel memoir detailing his time in Amsterdam as an exchange student from Berkeley Law in the late 90's. Amsterdam Exposed tells the true one-of-a-kind story of an innocent exchange student who moves to Amsterdam hoping to write a book about The Red Light District and everything that ensues. While abroad Wienir befriends a prostitute named Emma, forever reshaping both of their perspectives on intimacy, commerce, sexuality, one of the most famous tourist attractions in the world, and the women who work there.

David Wienir is a business affairs executive at United Talent Agency and entertainment law instructor at UCLA Extension. Before UTA, he practiced law at two of the top entertainment law firms where he represented clients such as Steven Spielberg and Madonna. His previous books include Last Time: Labour's Lessons from the Sixties (co-authored with a Member of Parliament at the age of 23), The Diversity Hoax: Law Students Report from Berkeley (afterword by Dennis Prager), and Making It on Broadway: Actors' Tales of Climbing to the Top (foreword by Jason Alexander). Educated at Columbia, Oxford, The LSE, Berkeley Law, and the Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, David is married to Dr. Dina, a pioneer of the medical cannabis movement and the inspiration for the Nancy Botwin character in the show Weeds.

How did you get into this story?
I was on this path to being a lawyer, but I've always been artistic. Yet, I never thought about being an author till I became one. I studied Philosophy as an undergrad, so I'm a searcher. I'm looking for answers to questions. I think sometimes as an author you get tapped. You become a vehicle for sharing a story or conveying a message or opening up a world because you're uniquely situated to do so.
Ironically yesterday, I found the journal of the first time I backpacked through Amsterdam at age 20. It was kind of devastating to see how threatened I was by the space; what my preconceived notions were about that world. My first time there, Amsterdam was a place that when I got there I wanted nothing to do with it. I remember bragging in my journal to myself, how I went to these coffee shops and only drank that coffee and let everyone else smoke "the weed" because that wasn't the world I was brought up in. Fast forward my first year of law school where, I went to the Mustang Ranch briefly. There I spent a few hours just talking with one of the woman who worked there. That encounter really changed my understanding of prostitution. It dawned on me, she's really she's no different than I am. These are issues we're entrenched in. It took me time to to figure it all out, which I think shows there's hope for all of us.
And I think that's one of the major premises of the book. We often hear about women who are prostitutes and we want to label them. We want to judge them. We want to turn them into these two-dimensional beings and stick them on the lower tiers of society so we can be superior to them. I think that's one of the main problems when it comes to prostitution. We're not going to change industry, it's the world's oldest profession, but we can do a whole lot better as a society to recognize them as human beings.

What's one of the preconceived notions of The Red Light District you'd like to change?
Often it doesn't have to do with sex. Yet because people perceive that it's all about sex, they see it as such a threatening world. This book is surprisingly provocative by showing innocence in this space. It's challenging by talking about the the place sexuality holds in people's lives. Prostitution in Amsterdam has gone on for hundreds of years, but there's only been a couple little pamphlets and guidebooks written about The Red Light District. It's almost like they're completely forgotten the women working there. I think most people look at The Red Light District as either hating it as this evil thing or they romanticize it. The thing that I think is probably the most threatening about this book, and the thing that I'm the most proud of, is how non-judgmental the book is towards the concept of The Red Light District and prostitution.
How has The Red District changed since you were there?
It's a very different Amsterdam than was in this book. Today, the District is fighting for its survival. It's the subject that people are really wrestling with. When I was there in 1999 there were 520 windows in Amsterdam, as of 2016 there were 324. That's a 25% reduction. In Arnhem, where Emma started, their Red Light District used to have 300 windows when I was there, now it no longer even exists.

What do you think is the bigger perspective of this book?
The fact that we had a human connection in a place where that wasn't permitted, that really took me off guard. To be able to build trust with one of these women in the windows is unheard of, it doesn't happen.
At the end of book I reference the idea from Eastern culture called "The Red Thread of Fate," which is the idea that this energy connects two people together. They are meant to be in each others life for a reason and change each other for the better. It was something that was definitely there. The way I connected with Emma was I bought all these flowers and presented them to her. In that moment, almost with a sense of desperation, I felt I had to give them to her. I needed to change her day, to brighten it just a bit. I remember that moment like it was yesterday. It lead to something pretty spectacular and I hope that that moment is inspiring. Not just to people who go to The District, but to human interaction overall.

What do you make of the fact that you didn't write this book for 20 years?
This book for me is about providing voices to the women in the windows, but even so it took me a long time to get to be able to do so. It was about getting to a point where I was able to share myself.
Early in my career I was working at a big formal international firm. This was followed by working at the two top talent boutiques representing Madonna and Steven Spielberg. That was an environment where I felt I would be judged. It wasn't until I got married a couple of years ago that I could fully put myself in the book and realize it was as much about my transformation as it was about Emma's. I really acknowledge my wife for allowing me, and pushing me, to finally embrace this story.

What do you think this book says about sexuality?
It's not a sanitized book. Sex is a very taboo subject; it's a world that most people don't want you talking about it. It's obviously respectful, but I didn't let the PC culture make me write a PC book about a non-PC world.
It's not a scientific book, it's about opening up a world and telling one tale behind one of those windows. Even though I have a background in public policy from the London School of Economics, this book is not trying to be social science. I'm not trying to speak for every women in Amsterdam who works in a window, as I shouldn't.
At the end of the day, it's a sweet simple platonic love story between a 26 year old law student and an Amsterdam prostitute.

Kat Thomas is the Editor in Chief of Edible Skinny, a site dedicated to making your life postcard worthy. She is also the CEO of the creative media company This Way Adventures. You can find more about both brands at http://www.thiswayadventures.com